Features: 
- 120max Watt output
- 12V and 24V system compatible
- High Efficiency DC-DC Power Supply (extended battery life)
- Built in auto shutdown
- Delayed shutdown timer: 10 sec. (Default), 10 min, 30 min, or 60min (set by Jumper)
- Wide input voltage range
- On/Off power switch input
- Remote trigger output
- Wide input voltage range
- Does not Re-boot PC during engine restart/cranking
- Load dump protected
- High efficiency (extended battery life)
- Start-up and shut-down voltage selection
- Automatic shutdown at low battery voltage to protect battery
- Built in diagnostics for troubleshooting
- Extended operating temperature range
- AT, ATX, BTX or ITX motherboard compatible
- Flexible standby power control
- Wake on interrupt when ignition is off
- Remote/trigger output to turn on/off slave devices

Issues with this power supply:
- Built in auto shutdown sometimes does not work right for me. Specially when you shut the car off, re-ignite before the timer expires, drive a few hours and then shut the car back off. One would expect the time to reset and count down again. But in some cases it starts the shut down upon ignition-off immediatly. This only happens when the above routine occurs. hmm. Bug?

- Delayed shutdown timer (10 sec. (Default), 10 min, 30 min, or 60min (set by Jumper)) seems to work when it feels like it or im not configuring the device right. I also suspect the same thing mentioned above.

- Automatic shutdown at low battery voltage failed me once. I had to push start my car on one occasion. I have no clue what happened there. Nothing else in the car is on.... wait... probably my dome lights but thats unlikely because the battery can last 12+ with the dome lights on. It was not even cold outside. hmmm....... Or maybe I dont have my jumpers set right.

- remote trigger for slave devices fails to power slave devices after resuming from an aborted shutoff countdown.

The jumper pin numbers are as follows	--------- 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5 ---------
We will only focus on changing Pins 1 and 2.	--------- 1 2 1 2 ---------
This is a 10 second shutdown delay (no jumpers installed on pins 1 nor 2 ):	--------- . . . . . . . . . . ---------
This is a 10 minute shutdown (jumper is installed on pins 1:	----------- |.| . . . . |.| . . . . -----------
This is a 30 minute shutdown (jumpers are installed on pins 2):	----------- . |.| . . . . |.| . . . -----------
this is a 60 minute shutdown (jumpers are installed on pins 1 and 2):	------------- |.| |.| . . . |.| |.| . . . -------------

If this is still not quite clear, you could always try the PDF manual located here. (see page 2)

When it came to deciding which motherboard, I wanted something small in size. Mini-ITX form factor motherboards measure around 17cm x 17cm. Perfect size. After looking at the specs of EPIA _MII 10000 ($167.00), EPIA MII 12000 ($213.00), VIA EPIA SP13000 ($199.83) or VIA EPIA M10000 ($160.00.) I feel as if my search for a top performers are over. I have chosen the VIA EPIA SP13000. This board has been tested to work ok in linux (gento) without many issues. And it has some impressive video playback results from benchmark tests. Good processing speed and plenty of connectivity.

Motherboard highlight specs: VIA C3 EBGA 1.3 GHz processor 1 DDR266/333/400 DIMM socket VIA UniChromePro AGP graphics with MPEG-2 decoder/MPEG-4 Accelerator! VIA VT1623 TV Encoder 1 S-video port 1 pci slot 2 SATA Connectors 2 X UltraDMA 133/100 Connector VIA VT1617A 6channel AC' 97 codec 2 USB 2.0 ports (on the back), 3 USB connector for 6 additional USB 2.0 ports Wake-on-LAN Keyboard Power-on Timer Power-on and operation Operating Environment Temperatures of 0c-50C (32F-122F) The motherboard came with IDE and backpanel cover... But it did not have usb or firewire headers. Being that I won't be using a retail case, I had to go out and find some LED's, mobo standoff's, switches and misc. I checked at local retailers; nothing. They kept saying if I buy a case then the headers and standoffs would be included. I also checked the local repair shops and they didn't sell those front panel headers or standoffs. So I asked a local repair shop if they had some wasted cases and indeed they did... but they already threw them away. Frustrated wasting 4 hours driving here and there, I asked them if they would mind me searching through their discarded units in the back of the store. with slight hesitation, they agreed. ^_^ *Dumpster diving!* I was amazed at what I dug up: 1-4gb hard drives, floppy drives, 150-350watt power supplies, modems, etc... I found what I needed (front/back panel headers!)

Extending headers to the front of the car

Using Cat5 wire, I extended power (green led), harddrive activity (blue led), reset button, and opus120 status indicator (red led) from the trunk of the car to the ash/coin-tray in the front of the car. Although functional, this part is still incomplete. I plan to mount it in a way that it looks OEM. After much planning and thinking, I started and somewhat finished the m odification to the ash tray... The ash tray was drilled, and the leds added in a way that if they get burned out, they can be pulled and easly replaced. Update: I burnt out the green pwr LED indicator. Seems that small LED's need resistors in place to reduce voltage. Simple to fix. Err..... there goes the extended red led from the opus. Wtf... it had a resistor. hmm... (3 days lateR) Damn!!! there goes the power led too! hmmm .... Two usb 2.0 port slots have been added to the ash tray... These run off a 15' certified usb cable that runs all the way to the trunk as well. No problems yet. The ports are in place with self grip and hotglue. Solid. ^_^ All leds installed, ports installed... there you have it. Its no longer a usless ash-tray. I still have 4 more ports to add somewhere... Im not sure yet were I will be adding those, but im guessing two will be in the back for passengers, and two more in the center console for small hardware such as bluetooth dongles, cameras and so on. Two more ports installed. I ran these wires from the trunk all the way up to the sun-visors. Here, I will have the GPS unit, and a clip on webcam.

One of the problems I had was that my Mitsubishi Eclipse, being a Spyder GT, had the Infinity system in it. Most install shops said I will need to rewire the while car in order to install a new headunit or amp because of the proprietary connecters used. While the proprietary connector is true, having to re-wire as my only option was false. There is an adapter that is available for the Eclipse Spyder with infinity which most shops such as BestBuy and Circuit City do not know about. The adapter is called "Mitah." this wire allows you to replace the headunit and keep the existing infinity amp without rewiring everything.

To the top right of the mitah adaptor is the BHA7001 Harness. This is used to tap into the power sources which fed the OEM radio all without cutting a wire. All went very well with the radio installation. Wiring was quite simple. No special mounting equipment needed. Getting access was not too complicated although it was a maze of screws. I noticed the bass response is not as good as it was with factory equipment so I had to add a Kenwood 10" Subwoofer w/200W Class D Amp (KSC-WD250) into the trunk. Its the only thing small enough, yet powerfull to fit and not take over the little storage space. Mini-Red neons lights were installed under the dash. I installed these in a way that they only power on when the door is opened. With the headunit, subwoffer and neons installed, I could now start thinking about how to wire in the mobo and psu...

The keyboard is a USB Zippy EL-620. Illuminated, small, light and thin.

I really wanted to bring the main power wire through the car's firewall. But, I could not find a safe entry point without having to explore under the car, remove wheels and so on. So Instead, I ran the wire down the fender and through the door's wire-channel rubber boot. Problem is, the wire is visible when the door is open ^_^' (I will be re-doing this step again later.) This brought the wire under the dash and from this point, I ran the wire under the door sills all the way to the trunk. Btw, the main wire is protected by a 10amp fuse 6" from the battery. If you are planning on doing similar projects DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP. Or else this might happen: fire.... The k301 screen sticks out a little bit from the dash. This is especially notable when the Jensen faceplate is not in place. In order to fix this, im going to have to to use a dremel on my mounting brackes to create a slot so I can slide the screws back and forth as needed, and then tighten in place (similar to mounting a cd drive.)

CarPC item check list:

Many thanks to the random people of the internet whom without you this project just would not have been possible!